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Banger checks
It is now time for Bangernomics students to get their hands dirty. As daunting as it may seem there is no
reason to be frightened by the prospect of checking a car out.
What must be established is that the vehicle is suitable and sound enough for your purposes; then you can call in the experts at used car checks. So the initial once over is down to you because there is no point in paying for professional checks on every banger you like the look of.
But don't worry even if you are mechanically bewildered because the Bangernomics approach is straightforward enough for anyone with the minimum amount of common sense and reasonable powers of observation to make an informed and accurate decision. You will be told why you are doing something and not simply given a bizarre set of confusing rituals, which could embarrass everyone. As a first step to gaining confidence why not carry out the tests on a friend's car?
Then you will know how long it takes and how simple the tests are to perform. You might be able to tell your friend the true condition of their banger. The point has been made to me over the years that you are better off not looking at a car as that can compromise your legal rights if anything is wrong. I don't see the point of buying a banger with your eyes shut and hoping for the best. If you are buying from a private seller the chances of getting money back or a successful prosecution are marginal. It is amazing what you can spot just by looking. Even if you reckon the car is ok, the final used car checks before buying should always be left to the experts.
Banger survival kit
Clothes: you should dress appropriately and that means scruffily. Any clothing that might be improved by the odd oil stain would be ideal. If you have sensitive hands, or would rather not get them dirty, don't be afraid to wear gloves. These should be fairly thin - don't bother with mittens - but rubber gloves allow you to poke around more easily and you can also buy thin latex disposable ones. There is also the psychological factor that if you do resemble a tramp, then the seller really believes you when you plead poverty and offer to pay less than they are asking.
Rags: no, these are not your clothes but a couple of very useful items that may have started life as your underwear. You can use them to kneel on when looking around the car, when testing the oil, or just to help you wipe away the grime when trying to get a better look at something.
Magnet: you can still pick them up in toy shops, or why not simply pinch one of those daft things that live on the door of your refrigerator. What a magnet does is stick to metal and drop off any replacement fibreglass panels, filler and it is also reluctant to cling to rust. Rust isn't such a big issue in more modern bangers, but you should be prepared.
Torch: helps you get a good look underneath the car, in wheel arches, even in the boot and under the bonnet. Make sure it works before you leave.
Mirror: not absolutely essential, but useful in allowing you to see into awkward places.
Screwdriver/metal pen: this is for poking around with (always ask the seller's permission first), so it need not be a brand new item and an old metal pen looks less threatening.
Clipboard: guaranteed to strike fear into any dodgy seller. Even if you don't feel professional, it will at least make you look as though you know what you are doing. With that clipboard you should also have a pen and check sheets to take you through the tests and help you assess the condition of the car. Remember to take any notes about the car that you made when making the initial telephone enquiry.
Friend: this item is particularly important because they can give an objective view of the car for example: "what a heap, you're not buying that are you? You cannot be serious, get a grip" etc. Just as importantly they can also distract the seller so that you can examine the car unhindered. Of course it may help if the friend knows something about cars, but that is by no means essential. They are also useful as a human tape recorder to witness the exaggerations of the seller when they swear on their mother's life that the car is A1, or that they will give you money off.
Insurance: just a final reminder that when buying privately you must have some insurance cover for the test drive. However, dealers must have cover for you to drive and if they do not, something is wrong.
The first five minutes
Early: it is a good idea to get to the seller's residence or forecourt early. Identify the car and then have a good look around before attracting the seller's attention. You might be able to make an instant decision; usually that it is not what you had in mind, so make your excuses and leave. Alternatively, you might catch the seller trying to kick it into life. Also, ensure that you are there early enough in the day to see the car in the light. An amazing number of people are apparently happy to pay good money for a car they could only see in the twilight. Don't make this fundamental mistake.
Just as importantly establish that this where the seller lives. Believe it or not some sellers park outside a house and pretend they live there. It may be to impress you, but mostly it is to mislead you, especially if the car isn't theirs to sell. If you have any doubts invent an excuse to go into the house, ask the seller for a glass of water or to use their toilet.
Time: you are the customer and, as we know, customers are always right. The car might be cheap, but that is no reason why you should be rushed around it in five minutes and then asked whether or not you want to buy. Take your time.
Car: the first thing to organise is that the car can be clearly seen. If it is parked on a forecourt, this often means that they are sardined door to door, or a private seller may simply open a garage door and invite you to squeeze around it, which is not good enough. Only when you can see the car clearly can you begin to make your first checks.
Questions: this is a good time to recap the questions you asked over the telephone, especially relating to the car's condition. In the flesh, sellers start to 'remember' all sorts of fascinating facts about the car, like the time it went for a swim in the Thames. If the life story of the car is changing too rapidly and significantly, then perhaps you should back out before wasting too much time.
Paperwork: the good news is that you are not going to get your hands dirty straight away. What you need to establish is that the car is what it is claimed to be and that the seller really does own it.
Registration document V5C: you can't tax a car without one of these, so if the owner does not have the V5C, be suspicious. The only reason why they may genuinely not have it is because they are transferring off a private registration number. Even then don't ever buy a used car without getting the genuine V5C. So make sure that it is. Look at the V5C closely. Are there any spelling mistakes or alterations to the V5C? If so, it may be a forgery. Hold the V5C up to the light as legitimate ones have watermarks.
This establishes the identity of the owner, or if a dealer, the previous owner; however, the person named as the registered keeper is not necessarily the legal owner. Note that it is a legal requirement to have a V5C and don't accept any excuses a seller may make for not having it. If the car is being sold privately does the name and address on the document correspond with the person selling it? Ask for proof of the seller's identity and address such as a driving licence, passport, or electricity bill. Check that the same name and address is given on the V5C.
When buying from a dealer, record the previous owner's name and address, you may want to make contact with them later. Note the number of previous owners and the date of the last sale. Perhaps this is a troublesome car being sold in quick succession? As mentioned previously, the fewer the number of owners the more likely it has been looked after. Establish the date of registration, is it 1999 'V' or a 2000 'V' registered vehicle. Write down the registration, colour, model description (gGTI, GL, etc) engine and chassis or vehicle identification (VIN) numbers so that you can check it against the car itself.
Check the V5C against the car so look at the vehicle registration mark (the number plate) and the VIN - this can be found on a metal plate in the engine compartment usually where the bonnet closes at the front, and stamped into the bodywork under the bonnet. Some cars also have the vin etched on their windows, lamps, or mounted behind the windscreen at the passenger side of the dashboard. The engine number is usually stamped on a prominent part of the engine. These numbers on the car should be the same as those on the V5C.
Even if they match, have the numbers been tampered with? Areas of glass may have been scratched off the windows, or stickers may cover up an etching which has been altered. This is usually done to hide the identity of a stolen car. If in doubt ask the seller for their insurance documents. If the car is stolen it is unlikely that they will have any insurance documents, although even these can be forged.
Bill of sale/original receipt: should the registration document be inconclusive, perhaps the seller has proof that the car was purchased and has the receipt to prove it. Maybe you can trace this back to the dealer or person that sold it. If the details are very different from the V5 maybe you should forget this vehicle.
Service history/bills: these are reassuring slips of paper which could prove that the car has been looked after and could back the seller's claim that they recently spent 'a fortune'. What you want to see is a folder, or file full of history rather than some apologetic slips of paper or just a stamped up service book which can be forged anyway. Read through them carefully because you must establish that they relate to the same vehicle. Do the stamps in a service book look like they were applied at the same time indicating a forgery. If there are garage details take them down and then contact the garage and ask them about the car. Another good reason for looking through them is that there may be a receipt that says the car was completely rebuilt after being damaged or was repaired after a flood. Read them
Mot certificate: just because the car has a current test certificate is no guarantee that the car is roadworthy. There are some simple checks you can perform. Note the mileage recorded at the time of the last test and compare it with the reading on the mileometer. If someone has been fiddling with the mileage reading that will be obvious, it will also give you an idea of the average mileage, especially if there are several Mot certificates to compare. Also cross-reference the details such as registration, cc (cubic capacity of the engine), date of manufacture and VIN with that on the V5 registration document. If you have doubts about the Mot's validity you can now telephone 0870 33 00 444 or go to www.motinfo.gov.uk.
Road fund licence: check that it is valid, it must be if you are going to test drive the car and also confirm whether it is included in the asking price. If it is check that is genuine and not a photocopy.
The car
You've done the easy bit and if you are happy with what you have read then you can move onto the car itself. Also refer to the banging about chapter for more information on how a car should operate if it is properly maintained and what the signs may be if there are problems.
In the open
As mentioned earlier get the car out into the open, in daylight and ideally in dry weather. Rain does strange things to paintwork and can make it look brighter than it really is. Walk away to a distance of between 12 to 15ft (4-5 metres). Look at the car from the front, rear and both sides. Does the car sit square on the road? If not, is a tyre deflated, or is the road surface uneven? Can't find fault with the tyre or surface? Then this may indicate that the suspension is close to, or has actually collapsed. Alternatively it points to a car that may have been haphazardly bolted back together after an accident. If you feel that the car could be dangerous to drive, don't.
Keep your distance
Do the panels look even and are they damaged? By looking along the sides of the car, from both the front and rear you can see the real condition of the bodywork. Misaligned panels, ripples and general unevenness again suggests that the car has been rebuilt after an accident. You may also be able to see any differences in the paintwork colour, so have they been resprayed? Ask why.
Get closer
Do any of the panels look as though they need to be replaced, or simply bear the scars of careless parking? In particular look at the paintwork, if you noticed any contrast in the colours when standing back, inspect them more closely. Old paintwork fades and any touch-ups should be obvious. You might see some drips, flecks of fresh paint or a matt surface. A cheap paint job means that there will be evidence of overspray (paint) on the window rubbers, under the wheelarches and on the tyres. The fact that this has been done is not important, but the reasons why it has been done is crucial and that means it is time to grill the seller. Has the car just tarted up to justify a higher than average price? Perhaps some major rust or damage has been camouflaged. Ask. Open and close all the doors, boot and bonnet, do they fit snugly, or snag on the surrounding metal and do the locks work?
Rust
Now you are nice and close, this is the time to start looking for rust. On cars built in the last decade or so the improvements in bodywork protection means that it no longer an issue unless there have been poor repairs after an accident. With older classic cars though rust is still very much issue and it will mean the difference between buying and looking for another car in much better condition. Otherwise the nasty little rust bug, starts at the bottom of the car where moisture and water collects and then eats its way upwards through the bodywork. What you have to distinguish between is serious and superficial rust.
The car may be full of holes but it can still be perfectly legal. Generally, minor rust on the edges of panels is rarely serious, so a rusty bonnet, doors and wings can easily be lived with, or simply repaired. However, structural rust is more serious, can make the car unsafe, and will result in an Mot failure as the important load bearing areas of the car can no longer take the strain. The problem is that whereas most mechanical parts can be easily and cheaply replaced; serious rot is too uneconomic to repair. If you think that the rust is serious then forget it.
Magnet: this will not stick to rusted or filled areas and replacement plastic body panels. If you suspect any area, be subtle and with a magnet (put it in your palm)and cover it with a layer of paper so that it does not damage the paintwork. Be aware that some cars may have some plastic panels as standard.
Hands: these are very sensitive instruments indeed. Running the palm over the bodywork can pick up imperfections and filler very quickly. Press any suspect parts of a panel with your fingers and feel for any give which suggests filler, or rust underneath, especially if you hear a 'cracking' sound.
Underside
Don't get underneath the car. Don't even jack it up. Even if you have axle stands. Examining the underside of a car should only be done in a workshop. However you may just be able to see some important parts by lying next to it and using your torch. Leave the complete underside inspection to the experts at used car checks but you may just spot some very obvious fault.
Screwdriver/metal pen: not to be plunged into the bodywork as the seller is likely to get upset, but it is useful to clean away mud and muck to see if there is rot underneath. The screwdriver is also excellent to tap suspect bits of metal. If you hear a pleasing ring, or solid resonate sound then it may be solid enough, but a dull thud that absorbs the tap rather than bouncing it off indicates rust and possibly filler.
Sills: the nearest thing to you when you get on the floor are the sills. These must be solid otherwise they will fail the Mot. The sills can sustain damage, especially on off-road vehicles that are grounded, so this can tell you something about how the car has been used.
Wheel arches: now peer into the wheel arches which are favourite places for mud and gunge to collect which soon rots the metal unless there are plastic covers. Have a good poke around and be suspicious if there is any freshly applied dirt, or lots of fresh black underseal which may be covering up some filler.
Suspension: attached to the wheels and usually bolted to the bodywork is the suspension. You may see some leaks from shock absorbers (tubes behind wheels) which means they need replacing. Can you see any parts that seem bent or out of true or rotten?
Exhaust: there are tests you can perform with the engine running but for the moment look at the silencer boxes and pipes, are they attached firmly to the car, are they rotten or crudely patched up? Some of these boxes can be replaced individually. If the exhaust looks new, or is made of stainless steel (which lasts the life of the car), you are in luck and it points to a caring owner. The catalytic converter (which cleans up the fumes) can be damaged but this is not always obvious from a visual check.
Floor: now look at the floor and the cross sections of metal, again you are searching for rot and signs of poor and obvious repairs. If something looks wrong then it probably is. Patches and fresh underseal all suggest a substandard repair.
Petrol tank: at the rear of the car you may be able to see the fuel tank. On older models these can rot badly (modern tanks are plastic), resulting in leaks. Any suspiciously clean part would signal trouble as fuel is an excellent remover of dirt and grime. Follow the petrol line to the front of the car if you can to check leaks and condition. Obviously a strong smell of petrol indicates that there may be a leak.
Oil leaks: use the ground to help you. If the car is parked on its usual spot (in the street this is difficult to know, but a drive is more conclusive) then you should be able to see any oily evidence on the ground. The engine area is the obvious place to shine your torch. Also on cars that have rear wheel drive and 4 x 4 vehicles follow the big tube (propshaft) to the rear axle differential (t-junction with the wheels at either end). If there are any shiny and oily items, then you may have spotted a leak. Minor leaks on older cars give little cause for concern, but if oil seals may need to be replaced this can be expensive.
Brakes: the thin pipes leading from the rear wheels to the front are the brake pipes. These should be intact, rust free and showing no fluid leaks. There are also flexible pipes that you may be able to see on every wheel hub (onto which the wheel is bolted).
Tyres: while you are on the outside, take a good look at the tyres. These are important items because not only is much of the cars' braking and cornering ability lost if the tyres are bald, you can incur driving licence penalty points if they are faulty. Tyre faults include; having incorrect pressures, cuts, lumps or bulges, exposed cord ply and badly worn tread. Also tyres of different types (radial or crossplies) must not be fitted to the same axle, i.e. opposite each other, whilst radial tyres must not be fitted to the front axle if there are cross plies on the rear.
A tyre that wears on the inner or outer surface indicates that the wheel is not vertical or directly in line with the one behind it. A tyre that wears in the middle or has bulges has probably been over inflated. If all that sounds a bit too complicated just remember that cuts, bald spots, bulges and mixtures of tyre types are all bad news and require sorting out. When in doubt don't risk a test drive until that tyre has been replaced. Without getting too complicated, all the information you need is written on the tyre wall itself, telling you its type, the manufacturer and maximum pressure.
Boot: open it and look inside and it's amazing what you may find in there. Water and moisture can collect in the nooks and crevices of the boot, so move the rubbish out of the way and look for rust. Remove the spare wheel, and look where it has been sitting, a pool of water suggests a leaky boot and probably a rotten floor section. The boot area can also show signs of repair, especially if the car has been hit hard from behind and repair sections have been welded in. The floor may also look rippled. Then check the spare wheel and tyre for condition. These can be neglected and in poor condition. Also if the battery is located here, inspect the area surrounding it, as spilled acid will start corrosion. Is there a wheel brace and jack for changing a wheel? There should be and if you are very lucky a tool kit and maybe even a warning triangle.
Interior
Now you can find out even more about how the car has been looked after, or not.
Floor/carpets: try and lift the carpets, in many modern cars this is not possible, but on older classics where rot is going to be an issue it is crucial to look under there. So can you see the road through the floor? A musty smell and damp carpets, accompanied with condensation on the windows, also points to rotting bodywork. With all cars look at the carpets closely. Maybe someone had an accident in there once and maybe spilt a bottle of milk. Stains and smells maybe can't be shifted so lift up the overcarpets. You might even find the original carpets worn through and replacing those is difficult and always expensive.
Windows: wind them up and down (or press the buttons) do they all work? Then turn your attention to the panes themselves, if security etched with the registration do they match the number plates? If not, why not? A close look at the windscreen from both inside and out could reveal a number of scratches and cracks. If serious it will need to be replaced. Try asking the owner to replace it under their insurance policy, well it is worth a try.
Seats: remove any covers and assess the seats for comfort and condition. In particular, does the driver's seat adjust? Look at the seat belts, the webbing must not be frayed or broken, and the anchor points (where they attach to the body) must be secure.
Mileage: few sellers would ever go to the trouble of renewing the interior to hide the true mileage of a car. So if the paperwork did not convince you that the mileage was genuine you can find more clues in here and spot a high miler. Tug on the driver's seatbelt and then let go. If it snaps back, fine. If it takes forever to retract the car has done a big mileage. Squashy, frayed and worn driver's seat? More signs that there have been lots of bums on seats. A worn and shiny steering wheel, a worn and equally shiny gearknob, where the H pattern is fading, an ignition key which has rounded edges, worn pedal rubbers and also a hole in the driver's side carpet are all signs that the car has done at least 100,000 miles.
Look at the dashboard. Are the screws holding it in place worn, or scratched? Does the steering wheel look out of alignment? If so someone may have been trying to get at the mileometer to adjust the miles. With digital readouts it is impossible to tell if it has been altered by a rogue with a laptop. The only confirmation of the true mileage is the paperwork and the condition of the interior. As mentioned before, contact the previous owner whose address is on the V5 registration document and ask for the mileage when they sold it.
Lights: use your friend positioned outside to check that all the lights work, front and rear from the indicators and headlamps through to stop lights and also any additional lamps such as fog or driving lights.
Controls: push, pull and prod all the relevant switches and knobs to make sure that the radio, electric windows, and sun roof all work. Electrical faults can be difficult to remedy and are very annoying. It may be something as simple as a blown fuse, then again it might not be.
Windscreen wipers and washers: legally they must work, even if it is not raining, don't be afraid to try them out.
Dashboard: switch on the ignition and you should find a lot of lights flashing at you and/or gauges indicating something or other. Some are more important than others.
Oil: this is usually a red light, often accompanied by an oil can or dipstick symbol. Ideally it comes on with the ignition but goes out within a second of the engine starting, telling you there is enough oil in the system to lubricate the engine. If the light stays on, then there is engine trouble.
Ignition: this light may have 'ign', or a battery symbol below it. Not surprisingly it comes on when the ignition is switched on but if it remains alight then either the battery or charging system is fault.
Brakes: a red or yellow light for both the foot and handbrake. The handbrake light will go off when disengaged. However, if the light flickers then the brake fluid may need to be topped up. Some cars have brake pad wear lights and if they need replacement the light will stay on. When in doubt consult the owner's manual if it still exists, often located in the glovebox or on a shelf.
ABS: many cars have anti-lock brakes and the light should come on and go off very quickly otherwise there may be a problem with the system.
Air conditioning: increasingly common, it may be a simple manually controlled system or a more complicated climate control set that operates automatically. Essentially it should blow hot and cold. When in doubt it should be checked by an air conditioning specialist. It may simply need some more refrigerant gas or perhaps the sensors are not working properly. It could also be a pump or compressor or some other part which is very expensive to sort out.
Oily bits
This is the part that some Bangernomics students think they might just flunk, frightened by the technology. However, there is nothing scary under the bonnet and although the mechanics of the modern motor car can be complex, there is no need to know which does what, in order to spot a fault. Once again it is a simple case of keeping eyes and ears open. A few words of warning though, if you have not put your cigarette out, do it now. Also, tuck away any items of loose clothing and tie back long hair if you don't want to become an integral part of a whirling engine. Don't forget that an engine gets very hot so keep unprotected fingers away from the exhaust manifold.
Note: if the car has been warmed up before you arrive the seller may have something to hide, perhaps it is difficult to start, or it makes strange noises when cold.
Suspension/steering
The bodywork checks, especially when you looked underneath, might already have revealed any strengths or weaknesses in the suspension. Mainly these relate to corrosion and leaks. By peering into the wheel arches you should be able to see if there is any fluid leaking from the shock absorbers and possibly corroded suspension springs.
Testing testing
Many engineers will tell you that mileage and age are important factors in assessing their condition. After a decade's use and/or 80-100,000 miles it is probably time that the shock absorbers were replaced. However the bounce test (which is not conclusive) does give a good indication of the suspension's effectiveness. Simply push down on the wing above each wheel, the car should bounce straight back then settle on the down stroke. If it keeps bouncing, the shock absorbers definitely need replacing. Put some gloves on and grasp the front road wheel and push it forwards and backwards, to see if there is any play in the suspension, especially if you hear any clonks or knocks. (note: certain makes of cars, such as Citroen, have unique suspension systems so expert help would be needed).
Now rock it against the steering (pull and push) listening for clonks. Put your hands on the steering wheel and move it slightly, is there any play (no more than an inch/2.5 cm), or movement before the road wheels turn? Your friend can help here. If there is play, then the steering may be worn, which the test drive should confirm. This is a possible mot failure point and may need a specialist to investigate further.
Under the bonnet
Don't start the engine yet, first of all try and assess the condition of the compartment. Anything that looks shiny and new is a bonus, but does it check with what the owner told you has been replaced? If it looks dirty in there, that is the least of your worries. Of course a tidy and well-kept area would suggest a caring owner. However, dealers and owners who steam clean the engine might well end up with a surface that is clean enough to eat sandwiches off, but it can clean away evidence of neglect.
Covered?
Many modern engine compartments have huge covers on them. This is done party to tidy up the appearance but it also stops the untrained prodding around. What you can touch is often helpfully coloured in bright yellow. Otherwise on certain models it can be difficult to see very much under there.
Oil: look first for leaks around the engine block and gearbox. Get on your knees and look at the engine from underneath, especially the sump (a rectangular box at the base of the engine) where the oil lives. Move the car or wander back to where it was previously parked, is there an oil slick on the spot? Many older cars can leak, but it should not be a visible black drip. Remove the oil filler cap and look for creamy, mayonnaise deposits, which suggests water mixing in the oil and is bad news. Ensuring that the car is on level ground, take out the dipstick (a metal rod mounted on the side or middle of the engine now with a yellow lid or end), wipe it with your cloth, re-insert and withdraw again. The level should be somewhere between the max and min marks. Too low and the car has probably not been cared for.
The condition of the oil on the end of the stick tells its own story. New oil is gold and clear, like honey. Normally used oil is darker but you should still be able to see the end of the stick. Dirty black oil points to a car that has rarely been serviced. The presence of tiny bubbles suggests that water is starting to mix with the oil, this usually happens when the head gasket blows. This is another problem you don't need. Look for the oil filter, this is a brightly coloured cylinder which screws into the side of the engine block. If it looks old and filthy, then again, basic servicing procedures have been skipped.
Water: now take off the radiator cap, or usually the clear plastic expansion tank which is attached to one side of the engine bay (only to be done with a cold, never a hot, engine) and look at the water. Once again whitish deposits point to oil and water mixing. Put your fingers in, then rub them together; do they feel oily? During winter especially, there should be anti-freeze in the cooling system which turns the water blue, green or red. Orange water suggests that there is rust in the system which in turn damages a lot of components. If you can't see any water there may be a leak in the system. Look below to see if there are any drips and look at the condition of the hoses, do they look old perished and-cracked?
Orange stains are the give-away to water leaks. Again that points to poor maintenance. This area is interesting if there are any brownish stains, which may even discolour the inside of the bonnet, suggesting that the car has overheated due either to a blocked system, failing water pump, or blown head gasket. It could happen again.
Battery: find it first, most are under the bonnet, some in the boot whilst the odd few can be found under the back seat. Almost all batteries are now sealed for life, but with any other type, take off the six filler caps and check the distilled water level which should be just cover the metal elements. Check the terminals the metal posts at either end of the battery, these corrode and become covered in white powder which can hamper its effectiveness.
Gearbox: initially you can check the gears without the engine running and just make sure that the stick moves smoothly into all of the gears. Then start the car. The stick must not vibrate, which is a sign of wear. More simple tests can be performed on the move.
Start engine: at last you can start the car. Ask the seller how it is done, there may be a procedure you are not unfamiliar with or some rigmarole you have to go through to get past the immobiliser/alarm. Position your tame friend at the rear of the car, ensure the gearbox is in neutral and turn the key. Does it start easily? A slow turnover or several attempts could point to a weak battery. Do all of the warning lights go out? If something is flashing at you find out what that light refers too. Listen carefully. Now get out of the car and ask your friend if they saw any white or dark blue smoke on star1-up? An old car is allowed a little puff to begin with otherwise there could be problems.
Apply brakes: push the brake pedal, it should feel firm and not immediately descend to the floorboards. It's essential to know they are operational before hitting the road and then maybe a wall.
Engage clutch: with the engine running depress the clutch, it should move smoothly and silently, a whirring noise points to a worn release bearing. Engage second gear and the handbrake, increase the revs and let the clutch out. If the car stalls with the revs dropping rapidly then it is ok. Otherwise the clutch is slipping and will have to be replaced.
Automatic gearbox: you can check that the selector moves smoothly into each gear. Then with the engine running and brakes on perform the same checks, the engine should not rev when the changes are made, which should also be silent and smooth. Then, with your foot firmly on the foot brake engage D (drive) and lightly press the accelerator, then engage R (reverse). In both cases the car should rise up against the brakes and not stall.
Diesel: never drive a warmed-up diesel, always start from cold to make sure it starts easily. Difficulty starting indicates that the engine may be worn and losing compression, which is bad. Also the heavy-duty battery may be losing power and is unable to turn the engine. Be wary of an oily engine bay which could be leaking from what are known as the breather pipes that connect with the air cleaner - a box on the top of the engine - this indicates severe wear. Also examine the diesel injector, pump and pipework where it connects to the engine for leaks as it operates under very high pressure and is crucial to efficient performance and replacement is costly. Basically leaks are bad.
Four-wheel drive: it is crucial to examine bodywork and underside of the vehicle, especially if you know it was used off-road. Look for dents, twisted chassis, suspension and corrosion. Find out how the four-wheel drive system works and then use it. Listen for noises from front and rear driveshafts and the transmission.
Turbos: best guarantee of good health is a full service history. Often it is hard to spot a turbo going on the blink, but look out for lots of smoke when accelerating.
Test drive: having established that the car is to your judgement safe and legal and provided you have no second thoughts or doubts, make it clear to the seller that you want to take the car for a test drive. This should not be a simple spin around the block, but a proper drive of at least 10 miles. If they object then make your excuses and leave. How else will you know whether the car is reliable and how it performs under normal conditions, or simply whether you are comfortable with it? However, if you have had a problem getting insurance at short notice, or the owner is so protective of their car that they will not let you drive, all is not lost. If the owner follows your route and carries out the tests according to your instructions then go along with it. This means that you will have to watch what they do very carefully, as some drivers will attempt to disguise a fault. But if they carry out these tests and you keep your eyes and ears open there is no reason why you should miss a major problem.
- the idea is to cover as many different types of motoring conditions as possible, from dual carriageway to town driving.
- before moving off and provided the seller agrees, install your friend in the car as an extra pair of eyes an ears.
- if the radio is on turn it off because it could hide noises and open a window so that you can hear what is going on outside.
- don't treat the car as your own and do the seller the courtesy of telling them what you are doing.
- remember to keep an eye out for flicking warning lights, or oil pressure and water temperature gauges (when fitted) that seem to be very active.
First driving impressions: once the car is warmed up, engage the gears and pull sharply away. If there is an audible 'clonk' on rear-wheel drive cars, this could mean that the propshaft needs replacing, a major garage job. When accelerating, the car should not jump out of gear, otherwise it needs attention. An automatic gearbox should change smoothly and quietly. Compared of course, to the kind of car you are used to, does it feel sluggish? It may be that the engine needs a simple and cheap tune, or it could be that the engine is about to expire. Only a few more tests will tell.
Clutch check: with a manual transmission model drive up a hill (it does not have to be steep) and accelerate; again the car should not jump out of gear. Stop and apply the handbrake, then put your foot on the brake and release it slowly. Does it hold? Perform a hill start and see how the car performs, especially the clutch.
Smoke alert: when descending the hill leave the car in gear and take your foot off the accelerator, then provided it is safe, at the bottom, accelerate away. In the rear view mirror you may see a puff of smoke, but not a smokescreen. A smokescreen means a badly worn engine in need of an overhaul.
Cataclysmic: catalytic convertors are vital but expensive components of the exhaust system and they can fail at any time. They have to work otherwise the car is illegal. You may hear rattling in the exhaust (internal breakages) and notice that the acceleration is poor (blocked cat). As a general rule a number of problems could occur to the catalytic converter as the result of an engine that is out of tune. Any time an engine is operating outside proper specifications, unnecessary wear and damage may be caused to the catalytic converter as well as the engine itself. The damage is often the result of an incorrect air/fuel mixture, incorrect timing, or misfiring spark plugs which could lead to a catalytic converter failure.
Take a brake: find a quiet road with no one about and at about 30 mph perform an emergency stop. There is no need to slam the brakes on, just apply them firmly. The car should stop in a straight line. If anything dramatic happens, like you start to go excitingly sideways, release the brake and steer your way out of trouble. End the test-drive if you feel unsafe, but bear in mind that brake problems can usually be sorted out fairly easily and quickly by a garage. Should the brakes squeal it could be a simple case of lubrication for a disc brake or, more seriously, worn wheel bearings, whilst drum brakes (fitted to the rear) could be very badly worn.
Sound engine: now pull away with the car in second gear, or alternatively, slow right down and then accelerate in fourth. A sound engine will not jerk, stall or make any ominous knocking sounds.
Steer clear: ensuring that you are on a quiet road, bring the speed up to 30 mph and loosen your grip on the steering wheel. If the car pulls noticeably to one side there may be something wrong with the suspension, or an indication that the chassis is twisted after an accident. However, there could be a very simple explanation such as incorrect tyre pressures.
Suspended animation: find some rough ground, or aim the car at some all too common potholes, does the vehicle pitch and wallow, taking some time to settle down? The suspension could be worn, confirming the results of the bounce test which you should have carried out earlier. Perhaps there is a bang or scrape from beneath the car and the exhaust is loose or touching the road. Don't confuse these sounds with loose tools banging around inside the boot.
After the drive: having established that the bodywork is intact and mechanicals seem sound, or you think any repairs will be cheap to put right what you now need is a short breathing space. Getting an expert second opinion is vital. You will need time to organise this, so place a small 'holding deposit' and a simple contract. Make sure that the deposit is returnable subject to car being inspected satisfactorily. Best not to talk about the amount you want to pay until the inspection is complete. If problems are found then that gives you the leverage to negotiate a better price or at least walk away from a problem car without making a huge loss and with a deposit back in your pocket. If the seller does not agree to this reasonable request then the car was probably not worth looking at in the first place.
